Vespers
Vespers
are celebrated at eight o'clock on the evening of the sixth in the
chapel of San Fermín in the parish of San Lorenzo. Accompanied by the
Pablo Sarasate Orchestra, Pamplona Cathedral Choir -with the backing of
the boy sopranos of the Escolanía Loyola- sings the Vespers composed
for the occasion in the XIXth century by Mariano García and Joaquín
Maya, both of whom were locally born composers. Until 1941 this
religious service was the first act of the Sanfermines but in that year
the tradition of the chupinazo began and today ¡t is the explosion of
the rocket into the air together with the explosion of the champagne
corks and happiness on the ground that mark the beginning of the
festival.
The Mayor and Corporation
attend vespers in full gala clress: top hat and tails for the men, and
for the women, a
tradicional
dress inspired by that of the valleys of the eastern Pyrenees. At half
past five they leave by the main door of the City Hall where a heaving
crowd of young people of Pamplona awaits them preventing the cortège
from making any progress, with the repeated sounds ad infinitum of the
Astrain Waltz: it's the popular "Riau-Riau", a test of
strenght between the authorities and the people which usually ends the
patience of the former in their desire to arrive at Vespers on time. The
Mayor and Council are accompanied by the city band, buglers, drummers,
macebearers, foot-men and the local police, who form a strong cordon of
sweating policemen, as the procession tries, often without success, to
advance just a few steps. The human sea is preceded by the Procession of
Giants and Big-headed carnival figures who delight the small children
who wait at their parents' sides as the slow-moving cortège goes past.
In recent years the "Riau-Riau"
has been called off due to incidents in which certain groups made any
progress of the procession totally impossible, meaning a far too late
arrival at vespers.